Flathead River cruise filled with fun, information

Flathead River cruise filled with fun, information
by Polly Kolstad


Nineteen of us piled into the Labatt Blue Heron, a comfortable pontoon vessel docked at Eagle Bend Marina on the north end of Flathead Lake. Music rose from the boat’s speakers as we began our 25-mile journey along the Flathead River, which twists and turns like taffy.

As we floated along the pristine waters, historian Fred Laroque shared the history of the area.

Thousands of years ago a glacier carved out the area that is now Flat­head Lake. Much later, the Salish, Kootenai and Pondera Indians moved to the west shore of the lake. Jesuit fathers and French Canadian fur trappers eventually settled in the area and white encampments soon fol­lowed, occupying this fertile valley.

Logging ensued, propelled by “really tough guys wearing hobnail boots,” Laroque said. These men were known as “river pigs” as they maneuvered timbers across the lake.

Early freight shipments were hauled by wagons and by boats, which found their way up the Flat­head River to settlements such as Lees Landing (Holt) and Demersville (Foys Bend).

A few miles up the river, in 60 feet of water, we came upon the remnants of an old pier still nodding in the boat­driven waves. This was where the ferry boat, Helena, once docked.

Nearby, sat what’s left of the gen­eral store at Holt. Across the way, a decaying roof still holds up parts of the dance hall.

And not too far from there you’ll find Kehoe’s Agate Shop, owned by a family that has helped document the history of the area.

As we meandered along the calm emerald waters, Mother Nature served up a treat. To the left, blue heron nests loomed high in the branches of riverside trees. The rook­ery boasts 12 nests, and a few of the birds hovered restlessly.

Now and then, a quizzical doe and fawn appeared in the fields. On the shoreline were small farms and lovely homes.

Finally, projecting out from the muddy shore, we spotted the spindly spires of a sunken dock, the remains of the boom-and-bust town of Demersville.

The story goes that Jack Demers, a French businessman, established a trading post here in 1887 that became a flourishing port. Demersville was the terminus of the freight boats that traveled the Flathead River.

From 1887 to 1891, the town grew, anticipating the arrival of the railroad. Downtown Demersville boasted the Cliff House Hotel, lake steamboats, a military post and lots of people.

Charles E. Conrad, owner of the Kalispell townsite, plotted a new com­munity just three miles north of Demersville. In 1890, the railroad chose Kalispell thanks in part, many believe, to Conrad’s wealth and polit­ical influence.

When this decision was made, the buildings of Demersville were literal­ly picked and moved to Kalispell, leaving only an old pier.

We disembarked and climbed the riverbank to see the Demersville cemetery, near U.S. Highway 93.

Turning around, we launched down river, our focus turning to art as we cruised up Rose Creek to artist Nancy Dunlop Cawdrey’s home, stu­dio and gallery. Nancy and her hus­band, Steve, graciously waved us into their dock and warmly welcomed us.

Nancy led us to her studio where she demonstrated painting on silk with dyes. With her brilliant use of the brush, Nancy brought horses, foxes and flowers to life.

Hailing the discoveries of the day, we sailed back to the marina.