Discovering the Flathead River

Discovering the Flathead River – travel story from Polly Kolstad

 

     Today, there are still discoveries to be made underscored by a theme.

     There we were, nineteen objective outlanders, prepared by historian Fred Laroque, for the footprint of the Flathead River, which previous to this day, was a flowing water way that simply emptied into Flathead Lake.

     Yet, as we launched the Labatt Blue Heron, a comfortable pontoon vessel, out of the Eagle Bend marina, we became Montana explorers on an expedition.

     Vangelis heralding music of 1492, the Conquest of Paradise, rose from our captain, Bob Livesay’s sound bites, as we began our twenty-five mile journey along the Flathead River.  A river that twists and turns like spun taffy looking for an anchor.

     Our first impression: we were floating along the pristine waters of a paradise lost, and found.

     When the histories of Montana were written, it was determined that a terminal glacier thousands of years ago dumped and carved out Flathead Lake.

     Much later, the Salish, Kootenai, and Pondera Indians lived and camped on the west shore of the lake and followed the resources that were available to them. Later, Jesuit fathers, and French Canadian fur trappers settled in the area.  White encampments followed having discovered this fertile valley. 

     The logging business ensued propelled by “really tough guys wearing hob nail boots,” according to Laroque. 

     They were also known as “river pigs” that maneuvered felled timbers across the lake.  Commerce began.  The early freight shipments were hauled by wagons and boats, the latter of which found their way up the Flathead River to settlements like Lees Landing (Holt) and Demersville (Foys Bend).

    Most of this cultural landscape has been lost, but we were out to find what still existed.

    A few miles up the river, in deep water (60 feet), we came upon the remnants of an old pier still nodding in the boat driven waves.  This was where the long ago ferry boat, Helena, docked, and a bridge beckoned travelers.  

Nearby, is an old building, what’s left of the general store at Holt.  Across the way, a decaying roof, still holds up parts of the dance hall, the remains of which are not far from Kehoe’s Agate Shop.  Kehoe’s, a family owned business, has kept tabs on the history of  the area.  If Leslie, a Kehoe descendent and historian, is not working in the shop, a sign on the door tells the fabled demise of the old town.

     Meandering along the calm emerald waters, Mother Nature interrupted our floating sanctuary.

     Just off to the left, blue heron nests loom high in lofty branches of river side trees.  The rookery boasts twelve nests with a few of the magnificent birds hovering restlessly. Our cameras capture nature’s wild beauty and then, we push on for more adventure.

     Casting concentrated looks up cat tailed sloughs and unknown streams, we spy flora and fauna that arouse biological and botanical queries.  Now and then, a quizzical doe and fawn appear in the fields.  We are a boatful of curious sailors on  a singular voyage.  Only an occasional canoeist paddles by.  Acres of shoreline give rise to agricultural fields, small farms, and lovely residences.

     We float along, sometimes in shallow waters, just three feet deep, yet navigating our way up the river for some twenty miles.

     Finally, projecting out from the muddy shore, we sight the spindly spires of a sunken dock, the remains of the boom and bust town of Demersville.

     The story goes that Jack Demers, a French businessman, established a trading post here in 1887 that became a flourishing port.  Demersville was the terminus of the freight boats on the Flathead River.  From this point on, boats could no longer forge up the river.

     From 1887 – 1891, the fledgling town grew anticipating the arrival of the railroad.  Downtown Demersville had the Cliff House Hotel, lake steamboats, a military post, Buffalo Soldiers, pioneers, and lots of people.  

      However, Charles E. Conrad, owner of the townsite of Kalispell, plotted a new community just three miles north of Demersville and in 1890, the railroad chose Kalispell.  Historians speculate that Conrad’s wealth and his political influence resulted in the railroad’s choice of Kalispell.  When this decision was made, the community of Demersville literally picked up the buildings and moved them to Kalispell, leaving only an old pier to signal a bygone era. 

     We disembarked and climbed the river bank to view the Demersville cemetery located along U.S. Highway 93 at Lower River Road.  Across the way, a lovely corn field and an old red barn silence the storied recollections of the railroad that never came to town.

     Turning around, we launched down river.

      Our historical focus turned to art as we detoured and cruised up Rose Creek to artist Nancy Dunlop Cawdrey’s home, studio, and gallery.  Nancy and husband, Steve, graciously waved us into their dock and warmly welcomed us.  Nancy led us to her upstairs studio, where she demonstrated her masterful process of painting on silk with dyes.  With her brilliant use of the brush, Nancy brought to her canvas horses, foxes, and flowers that dramatize her fine work.

     The vibrant hues of Cawdrey’s paintings notched yet another interesting turn along the ever colorful, and winding Flathead River.

      Hailing the discoveries of the day, and new found knowledge, we sailed back to the marina.

     Rivers give life and stories, and the Flathead evokes much more than just flowing into a giant lake.

 

Photo Op: I am emailing pictures.  

    

      

     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Copper King Mansion

Copper King Mansion – Butte, MT   story from Polly

     There’s a sense of storytelling when John Thompson passes through Butte’s Copper King Mansion’s dining room door bearing plates of traditional pasties.

     Thompson, a third generation co-proprietor of the thirty-four room William A. Clark home, baits his seated guests with bits and pieces of information, with promises to tell the rest of the story over dessert and coffee.

     The other half of the owner team, Erin Sigli, Thompson’s sister will appear later.  But for now, she is dishing up boats of gravy and bowls of catsup to accompany the famous steak and potato pastry pies.

     Questioning stares and prolonged queries spike the conversation as the grandeur and Victorian opulence of one of America’s nineteenth and twentieth century richest men stretches beyond the exquisitely crafted walls.

     Eventually, the firestorm of questions from a group of antique and history buffs, brings the shirt sleeved Thompson to the head of the table to regale the audience seated in this grand old house. 

     “Since 1953, my grandmother, Anna Cote, my mother, and my siblings have owned the mansion; we bought it wall to wall,” he relates.

     Back then, when “gram” bought the mansion, she had some furniture and fixed up the rooms with hot plates, a few accessories, and rented space.   Gram, and Ann, her daughter, frequented estate and garage sales to add “piece by piece” to the Clark mansion which was built from 1884 -1888.

       The mansion stood nearly empty after previous owners had done away with the furnishings. 

       According to Thompson, in 1953, World War II and the Korean War were over.  With the GI Bill people were able to get a new house. They got rid of “old stuff.”  In addition, every once in awhile, someone would give his grandmother a treasured item.

     One day, a lady knocked on the door with a beautiful crystal epergne she had bought in Hollywood.  When it was shipped to Butte and she opened the box, she thought it was the ugliest thing she had ever seen.  Gram put it on top of the china closet along with many other collectables, and a few original Clark pieces, that add to the present day splendor of that long ago era.

     William Andrew Clark moved to Montana in 1863.  From a lucky strike in Bannack, he extracted $1500 worth of gold which became the start of his immense wealth.  He arrived in Butte in 1872 and began amassing his fortune in copper smelting, banking, newspapers, and railroads.  He lived in Butte for nearly three decades with his first wife, Catherine, and their five children.  Catherine died in 1893. In 1900, Clark married Anna Eugenia La Chapelle in Paris, a Butte native studying in France.  They had two daughters: Andree and Huguette.  Andree died of meningitis in 1919, a week before her seventeenth birthday.  Huguette passed away at the age of 104 in May 2011.

    In 1907, Clark moved his family from Butte to New York City where he had built a 121 room Beaux Arts mansion on Fifth Avenue.  He continued to visit his Butte home as Eugenia had family in the city and Clark remained involved in Montana business.

     Clark died in 1925, and his son, Will Clark, Jr. took ownership of the mansion until 1934 where upon his death, it was acquired by a business partner who worked for the Hansen Packing Company.  They sold all the furnishings.     

     In 1935 the Catholic Diocese purchased the building and turned it into a convent for nuns.

     Since 1953, when Anna Cote bought the mansion, the family has been capable of keeping it historically correct through many stages of restoration.

     “We have six children, four of whom are very involved in the business from accounting to contracting,” says Sigl.  “Over time, we have worked meagerly,” she adds.

      Recently, a national historic preservation grant helped immensely.

      Referring to the contributions, Sigl comments:  “it was God sent,” as the money provided a means to replace the boiler, rain gutters, and restore the exterior.

     Throughout the years of upkeep, the Cote family has continued to offer tours of the mansion and maintain their Bed & Breakfast which is listed in the National Historic Preservation.  Today, there is a seventeen page script about the Copper King mansion that the guides must memorize. The long narrative is a tale of glass workers who made all the French beveled stained glass; artists who hand painted different frescoes on the ceilings in every room; and craftsmen who hand- carved and finished all the imported woodwork. It took four and a half years to complete with the total cost of construction at over a quarter million dollars.   However, it has been noted that Clark’s income in 1888 was nearly seventeen million dollars a month.  The cost of his home represents about a half day of his income.

If you go:

Copper King Mansion

219 Granite Street

Tel: (406) 782-750

thecopperkingmansion@gmail.com

Tours everyday May 1 – September 30

Adults: $7.50 - Children $3.50

jasen Emmons - curator EMP Museum Seattle, Washington

Jasen Emmons- EMP Museum Seattle, Washington

     Take the downtown Monorail to Seattle Center and as you near your destination, the train dashes through a corner of a massive curvy lavender-pink building.  The undulating elements seem to define movement and what some call: swoopy shapes.  You have arrived at the Experience Music Project (EMP) Museum.    Renown architect Frank Gehry had rhythmic dynamics on his drawing board as he designed the EMP for his client Paul G. Allen, co-founder of Microsoft and  a collector of Jimi Hendrix and rock n’ roll ephemera.

     It also seems to be the right place for curatorial director, Jasen Emmons, who grew up in Great Falls, Montana.  From somewhere within the 140,000 square foot facility, Emmons appears to guide us through this amazing world of music.  A longtime multi media specialist, he now directs the EMP curatorial, collections, and education departments.  He also oversees the carpenter shop that builds exhibits within a 5000 square foot shop.  He has created 44 exhibits of which 17 now belong to EMP.    Referring to the absence of flat surfaces and the unusual rounded out walls of the building, he muses that: “It is a challenge to bring in and display exhibits because it is a French model with crazy shapes.”

     While the tone is set by the building’s exterior exuberance, Emmons enthuses about music, science fiction, and pop culture which the EMP is all about, even adding, that the EMP is the largest Jimi Hendrix exhibit.

     “Every two to three years, we do a new exhibit of him,” says Emmons.

   And for a guy who loves music (he also plays the drums and is in a band that does gigs around Seattle), Emmons is surrounded by sound.

      We are awestruck by the massive “cyclone of instruments” located on the main level in the museum’s entry.  Beckoning to be seen and heard, the multicolored structure, IF VI WAS IX, was created by Trimpin, an artist originally from Germany, now living in Seattle. The towering edifice contains more than 500 musical instruments from which sound bites are recorded and played back on an audio file. It’s the thirty-five foot icon that crowds gather around as the EMP’s visual catch for photos.  

      Strolling to the other side of a cathedral like space, we enter the Grand Hall which contains one of the world’s largest High Definition screens. This is the Sky Church where audiences watch dynamic music, videos, short films, and audio reactive visuals.

      Emmons moves us on to the Icons of Science Fiction where we encounter objects from famous films and TV shows, and where people are trying on costumes to create their own sci-fi world with the film composition interactive. There’s definitely a different way to see yourself here.   Not just in disguise, but also, by visiting the shadow wall to watch your shadow morph into monstrous forms.  And, if you’re not a scaredy cat, you will want to see the lure of the ten best horror (hair-raising) films.

     We paused for sometime in the Guitar Gallery which chronicles how guitars went from being acoustic to electric.  If you have ever wanted to know the fascinating history of guitars, it starts here with a 1770s Italian guitar.  There are sixty-five instruments in the collection that goes through the development of the instrument as it became larger, went electric, and finally came to dominate the stage as the signature instrument of rock n’ roll.

     Just a few steps away, people are jamming with ear phones and musical instruments.  “The idea is to let people make music in here,” directed Emmons. The glassed in booths were full of adults and children.  This Sound Lab promotes hands on play with installations such as the Big Drum which can be played by up to 12 people and a number of trio instrument stations. You may also pop into one of Sound Labs private rooms to perfect your own jam.  Then, hasten over to On Stage and perform with your own impromptu band, belt out one of five pre-selected songs, and capture the moment with a take home poster, CD or DVD of that performance.    

     The grandeur of rock n’ roll resonance is played out in The Sound Vision Gallery where kiosks show excerpts from interviews with hip hop, Santana, and oral histories of other famous musicians.  Close by, taking punk music to main stream, the Nirvana Exhibit features artifacts and photography from the band, and those connected with them.  It also includes many prints of the Rolling Stones captured by photojournalist, Jim Marshall.

     Presently, the EMP is featuring a special exhibit:  Worn to be Wild:  The Black Leather Jacket.   The EMP partnered with The Harley- Davidson Museum in Milwaukee, Wisconsin to showcase one of pop culture’s defining garments.  Originally inspired by the WWII bomber jackets, bikers and celebrities have embraced them for style and warmth.  Here, there’s a peek at Elvis Presley’s jacket and one of his roaring bikes.

     The EMP’s technology and intensive multimedia displays are ever expanding.  Soon to come, according to Emmons, will be a “fantasy” exhibit featuring, among others, Lord of the Rings, and Harry Potter.

     At the beginning of every adventure, it is difficult to anticipate what to expect.  Indeed the EMP leaves you with a harmony of contemporary sound.   And, around every corner, the museum provides an opportunity to learn something.

      The intrigue of history, the magic of music, and the creativity of putting together shows; these words fall out of Jasen Emmons’ mouth like musical notes.  They play on a sense of symphony in a rock n’ roll world at the EMP which he knows well.

    

Admission costs:

Adults: $20

Seniors: $17

Youth: $14

Children: Free

Lost Lake, Montana

Lost Lake – travel story from Polly

     My second trip to Lost Lake began on a misty morning in June.

     A cool wet forecast in the Highwood area sent me packing wool sweater, and a rain jacket.

      But, I wasn’t as finely prepared as my guide, Ron Long, EMT, volunteer fireman, and historian par excellent, well known for his research of the rugged beauty of the Shonkin Sag, Lost Lake, and the Square Butte area.  A trail of waterproof footwear and beverage coolers awaited my arrival in Long’s driveway just off the highway straddling Highwood.

     Long will trod destinations within miles to share his love of his rural residence.  His excursions are often accompanied by others who share knowledge.  We were fortunate to be in the company of Chris Croff, a well traveled geologist, now living in the Monarch area.  Though Croff had previously not explored Lost Lake, he was well aware of the area he described as “glacially bribed,” and geomorphologically a “unique area.”

     He is not exaggerating.

      It’s old news.  Lost Lake, about 70 miles northeast of Great Falls, is the remnant of an ancient sea that roared during the Pleistocene (ice age) thousands of years ago.  A glacier advanced and formed a series of glacial lakes along the Missouri River and its tributaries. These lakes were confined by highlands to the east.  (For instance, glacial Lake Great Falls formed west of the Highwood Mountains.)  Eventually, however, the water level raised high enough to spill over the natural barriers and carve out a new channel.  Today, this abandoned channel is known as the Shonkin Sag, allegedly the Blackfeet word for the Highwood Mountains, or an adulteration of one of the town’s early settlers, John Shonk.

     The Shonkin Sag happened when one of the continental glaciers melted scooting snow and rain down.  That dammed the Missouri River which was hundreds of feet deep.  The dam became high enough that it flowed on the face of the glacier and formed this area.  The soil on one side of the valley was dumped by the glacier which included rocks.  On the other side there was a sea bed, the bottom of which was shale.  Eventually, the decayed mountains eroded down to the present size to get rid of the volumes of the mountains.   Deep within the earth, the molten magma melted, and changed the composition basically to a soup that rose to the surfaces picking up minerals like potash, and feldspar . Shoved under the mountain because of its thickness, the magma intruded up. It expressed itself when it vented to the surface  (volcano) and it left an unusual rock: Shonkinite.

    “Shonkinite is relatively rare, found only in a few places around the world,” Long told us as we turned onto the Shonkin Road.

     He pointed into the distance to the grand and picturesque Square Butte and Round Butte where vertical rocks encompass the land surface and form different linear patterns.  These are intrusive rocks, or laccoliths of Shonkinite, that form a flat line feature with more vertical extent.

     Already, I found myself viewing hills and valleys in a new way, encompassing new vocabulary.  Part of this region’s secret is that people look at the landscape and don’t understand what they are seeing.

     “Once you have the knowledge and pursue the rhetoric, then you have something you can walk away with,” said Croff.

      As we approached the Shonkin Sag several miles on Shonkin road, the Sag ran east and went parallel to the road.  Now it turns and starts off to the north.  Here, you can see a valley where the river was dammed and washed out an elongated depression between upland hills.

     A rocky slope revealed a gravel pit filled with Shonkinite: dark black or grey stones with grey speckles.  This is one pile of rocks: millions of tons of gravel from a north flow of water that deposited it.

     Long pointed to explain that “when the glacier diverted the Missouri River, it didn’t always run in one channel.”  “It pushed the river out further east of here into several other channels.” 

     From here, we approached the channel where the river ran and formed Lost Lake.  There are appearances along the way of volcanic dikes, outcroppings of rocks that were formed by the river channel.

    A sweeping green landscape plunged us into a canyon along Shonkin Creek filled with bleached sandstone and granite.  Early summer turns these lush hills to a vibrant green, dotted with yellow balsamroot. And, the purple blossoms of Russian lilac sweetly invaded our geological navigation.  As a kid, Long fished along this rock dike, bringing home a fine catch of trout!

     Lost Lake was our destination, but a series of other lakes lie along the Shonkin Sag.

     “They are dead lakes like the Dead Sea with an accumulation of salt,” explained Long. 

     “When they dry up they leave a salt residue late in the summer.  The salt residue is evident throughout this area because when the glaciers melted and formed shale, that was about three per-cent salt, the source of the saline seeps that have caused so much trouble in this part of the country.  Shale is near impermeable.  The water doesn’t sink into it, but evaporates.”

     Long motioned to the slumping hills ahead of us, mostly made of shale with a thin layer of top soil above that shale. The shale has bentonite in it, which when the soil gets saturated, (especially in the spring) it slips, and makes the benches along the hills.

     “Even in my lifetime I’ve seen it,” he said, stopping to show us the railroad track just ahead which was covered with sliding earth from the slump.

    After patiently following an antelope down the dusty road, we turned into a small parking pullout.  

     A long walk across a field, led us to a secret valley in the depths below.  Here was Lost Lake, approximately one mile long, surrounded by laccoliths and the dark outcroppings of Shonkinite formations.  From our vantage on a steep promontory, the bluish green water was quiet and somewhat foreboding.  The lake remains its old self, tied to the ancient past with tales sunk in the deep still waters, hidden from most of mankind.  The unspoiled prairie around the perimeter gives way to numerous wildflowers lingering with blossoms of: lupine, wild rose, prickly pear, and sandlily.

    “Can you just see the Missouri River dropping over these rocks,” pondered Long, as we stood marveling at the experience and exploration of a long forgotten world.

     This was why we had made the day long journey to experience and savor such a geological wonder. The adventure was worth a sustained pause to soak up as much of the strata as we could.  Now, we understood why the guest book at the Four Sisters Ranch in Square Butte included a long roster of famous geologists who had come to this area to do research and attend the 1989 International Geological Congress.

      Among other things, our tour brought us into the town of Square Butte where we stopped for a delightful lunch at the Square Butte Country Club.  We pulled up to the lone parking meter, and stepped into the tiny bar and restaurant.  Chef Amy was in the back baking desserts for the Saturday night hoedown, but she came out to review the menu items which included tasty burgers, homemade soup, Rocky Mountain oysters, and chicken livers. 

     Before departing Square Butte, we stopped to view the old jail house constructed in the late nineteenth century of Shonkinite.  The square block stones and iron bar windows remain touchstones to the past and a testament to the local construction one hundred years ago .

      Focused on the idea of an unusual day escape, there is much pleasure and novelty of encountering newfound geology, and something old and ancient, like Lost Lake, and the historical surrounds.

     Lost Lake is located on private property.  Occasionally tours are available.

 Call:  Ron Long @ 406-733-5321.

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College Bound: hints for getting into colleges

Techniques to get into college: Early planning

     In addition to working with high school counselors, there are some things students and parents can do to facilitate college applications. 

     Anne Martinez, a management consultant and now a community school volunteer, enjoys mentoring students. Martinez has a B.A. in Economics from Princeton University; and a M.B.A. from Stanford University.  She has served on the Great Falls School Board.  Presently, she is a board member of both the Great Falls Scholarship Foundation and the Great Falls Public Schools Foundation.  In the past, she has worked as a strategic planner for Davidson Companies.

     Martinez has had two children go through the process of applying to colleges and universities in 2010 and 2011. She has done alumni interviews for Princeton University for many years as part of their admission process and has met a lot of students over the years that she has helped.

     Martinez offers some insight to what you can do to get an early start on applications for college.

    1.  How do kids apply to colleges and universities today?

    The Common Application (commonapp.org.) is a free online undergraduate application used by over 400 colleges and universities.  The CA currently provides both online and print versions of its First-year and Transfer Applications. Teachers and counselors use this website as well.  It is an overwhelming process for parents.   Also, a good blog: New York Times: “The Choice,” offers a wealth of information about applying to college; from the financial aid to the required essays.  This is a good resource as experts chime in on the blog.  There are also independent educational consultants like Hughes Tutoring (www.hughes tutoring.com) located in Missoula, Montana.  

2.  What kind of help is available if you want to apply on your own?

     Parents of all high school students locally receive the VISIONS newsletter published twice a year.  College Bound also does a workshop every spring.

3.  When is a good time to start planning your path to applying to college?

     Early on, kids need to read, read, read, even quality magazines, like National Geographics.  Kids that are good readers, test well.

     Students need to start planning in middle school.  In the seventh and eighth grade, start taking honors classes.  If you do not start here, it is harder to jump on track later.  High schoolers need to plan over four years.  When planning their course of study in high school, students should consider taking AP (Advanced Placement) and/or dual credit classes.  Not only do colleges like to see that you have taken these rigorous, college level courses, but if you get a high enough score on the AP tests, you can also get academic credit or be placed in upper level courses putting you on track to graduate early.  Obviously, this can save you and your family money in the long run.   

     From sophomore year on, start practicing for the SAT (SAT Reasoning test, formerly the Scholastic Aptitude and Scholastic Assessment Test) and ACT (ACT.org, the organization responsible for the ACT Assessment College) tests.  Most colleges accept either the SAT or the ACT and you can take them as many times as you want, although it may be costly.  Some kids do much better on the SAT or the ACT, so take them both at the end of sophomore year or beginning of the junior year to see which one you do better on.  Definitely take the PSAT (Preliminary Scholastic Aptitude Test) the fall of sophomore year for practice.  Juniors take the PSAT to qualify for National Merit Scholarships.  The website: collegeboard.org has information on SAT testing.  And the new policy called “Score Choice: that allows students to see scores before sending them in.  You might take the test again to improve.  Then, send your highest scores from your test to the colleges to which you are applying.  Some colleges require two SAT subject tests.  Plan your testing schedule in advance and find out when and where these tests are given.  It is wise to take the SAT subject tests in the spring after completing the relevant class.

4.  How important is the high school transcript?

    This is what the admissions office looks at first. It is most important.  Consider: course load, class rank, leadership potential, essay and extracurricular activities.  Schools today are looking for what the individual student is passionate about. For example, if you like to write, volunteer to be part of the editorial staff of your high school newspaper.  Community service is important.  Use your summer effectively to volunteer.  If kids have to work full time in the summer, that shows a good work ethic.        

5.  How can a student strengthen their application?

     There is a lot of free testing on line from College Bound.  The vocabulary website: freerice.com.  donates ten grains of rice through the World Food Programme to help end hunger for each answer you get right. Subscribe to the SAT question of the day.  They will email it to you.  Another way to apply is for Early Decision or Early Action.  Early decision is binding and you have to apply by November 1 of your senior year, and commit (if accepted) by December 1.  Early Action defines your decision by early spring.  The advantage here is that the odds of getting into your school of choice are better.

6.  How important is the required essay?

     The essay is very important.  The earlier a college applicant starts drafting his or her essay, the more prepared they are. Pick something to write about that you are passionate about.  Have parents and teachers read this and get going early. This is the part of the application where students can demonstrate their interests and intellectual passion.  Take a look at the website:  commonapp.com. It refers to set of questions that schools want answered in your essay. Work on it during the summer between your junior and senior year.  Each college will also require supplemental essays of varying lengths.  Have your English teacher, parents, siblings and friends read your essay and give you feedback.

7.  Are recommendations still required for college applications?

     Yes.  Most schools require recommendations from two teachers, one counselor, and sometimes an optional recommend from someone the student personally knows well or has worked for.  Choose teachers who know you well and with whom you have a good relationship.  Give them a list or resume of your activities and awards and work experience.

8.  Is there financial aid available to most students?

     Financial aid is mostly need based, but generous.  People tend to underestimate their need.  It depends on many factors: assets, income, and the number of kids in your family in college.  FASA.org has the financial aid form.  All three Great Falls high schools hold FAFSA (Free Application for Federal Student Aid) in February, March and April for families who need help completing the FAFSA Form.  There are also many subsidized government loans available.  And, there are lots of scholarships to apply for.  Don’t be discouraged by the price tag.   

 

 

Alpacas: Signature Montana Spring 2013

Alpacas: story on the Sleeping Giant Alpaca Farm from Polly Kolstad

     Sandra Rumney swings the metal gate open, and forty-two fleecy heads in the corral nearby turn her way.

     Recognizing their trusted keeper, Rumney’s alpaca herd begins to hum.

     “They are mouth breathers. That is how they communicate,” replies Rumney of the curious animal chorus that seems to come closer and closer.  She smiles and explains: “they walk up to a person in an effort to smell your breath as a means of identification.”  Oddly, they don’t want to be petted.  They just want to be in your face.

     In the shadow of the Sleeping Giant Mountain near Cascade, Rumney is raising these members of the camelid family (and cousins to the llama, guanaco, and vicuna) for their fleece.

     Far from their native South America, where they are found in the high Andes of 14,000 ft. elevation, the alpacas have adapted to the Montana climate.

     After retiring from years in the advertising business, Rumney brought the animals from a small acreage she and her husband, Jeff, had in California.  She acknowledges that “the winters in Montana are a little cold for them,” yet, alpacas are healthy and easy to raise. For over two years, she has kept her long haired herd of Huacaya (teddy bear) and Suri alpacas.

    Forever an animal lover, Rumney points out that though they are curious, for the most part they don’t want to be touched. Alpacas can kick, but because of their size (three feet tall at the withers), the impact is minimal, and interestingly, they do not spit on you. (Llamas will spit.)  They are too small to pack or be ridden.  Possessing only bottom teeth and a hard palate on the top, the alpacas graze and do not rip grass out by the roots. They take supplements of vitamins and minerals in pellet form. They are almost indefensible without horns, hooves, or claws.  Surrounding the corral is a high tensile electric fencing and a guardian dog to keep predators out.  Recognizing their dependency, Rumney is always vigilant, but does let “the boys” out in the pasture during the day. The adult males show up at the corral at five o’clock for dinner and want the security of the barn.  Some of the males are “herdsires” (or studs, aka “Macho”) and are used to breed.

     The moms are very protective of the babies.   Babies are called” “cria” (based on the word creation). A female is either a maiden or a “hembra” and will have only one cria, weighing between ten and twenty pounds, after a gestation period of nearly twelve months.

     Rumney provides a proper and protective environment for her herd which has a positive impact on the overall health and well being of the alpaca which in turn aids in the quality of their fleece production.

      Alpacas produce a fleece that is lighter, softer, stronger and warmer than wool.  Alpaca fleece has no allergens.  The microscopic air pockets make it light weight with a high insulation value.  It is one of the finest fibers in the world, with very little barb. Both male and female alpacas will produce a good fiber. 

     The shearing season is usually in May.  Alpacas fleece will grow four to six inches per year.  If they are not shorn, they do not shed their wool.  It takes three people to shear an animal, with the resulting fleece weighing five to eleven pounds. 

    After she shears the alpaca, Rumney hand washes the fleece in cool water with mild soap or shampoo.  It must be just swished around in the water, not agitated.  All told, she may wash it two or three times  and then, hang the fiber on hangars to dry.  Next, the clean fiber which looks like cotton and feels like silk, is spread out on a screen.  Eventually, it is immersed in dye baths for 45 minutes, then, set until cool, about twelve hours.  This long arduous process of making fabric, or wet felting, continues as Rumney then cards the fiber on a hand cranked machine.  Thus the fiber becomes combed and is laid out on a table according to her design in sheets on top of one another.  Here, the fiber is rolled on bubble wrap with a back and forth motion so the fibers shrink and interlock with each other.  The rolling process is repeated from the other end to further intertwine the fiber.  

     “It’s making fabric,” Rumney says of the wet felting process which is 7000 years old, and predates weaving.

      Observers today recognize the quality of American alpaca fleece. The commercial market is wide open in the U.S.

     “Even on the catwalks in Paris, designers have alpaca, and now, show ring people recognize the fiber and how good it is on the animals. A judge from Peru can’t believe how fast the quality has grown in the US,” she remarks.  

       Rumney takes her products to juried art shows.   

     “I make wearable art,” she notes, alluding to her handmade original scarves and wraps, woven rugs, and woven throws that she has sold all over the north west, and her purse designs which she hopes to put on the market this summer.  In addition, she buys goat milk soap from a neighbor and felts it with alpaca fleece. Her products are currently available at Latigo and Lace in Augusta, Montana, and at the Four Ravens in Missoula.

     Blue ribbons attesting to the quality of Rumney’s fiber fabric and the value of her herdsires line the walls of the Sleeping Giant Alpaca Farm, a tribute to the roots of Sandra and Jeff Rumney whose Montana families go back generations.

     For pictures of Rumney’s products, go to sgthreads.com  

  

 

 

 

 

 

Front Street Market - Butte, Montana

Front Street Market – story by Polly Kolstad

     One of the coldest winter’s ever in Butte didn’t deter Jimmy and Marla Yakawich from returning home and eventually opening the Front Street Market.

     Jimmy was back for a 1989 Christmas party when his mother told him that Farmer Bill’s Market on Front Street had closed for good.  He didn’t know anything about the property, but went down and knocked on the door.  The store was full of antiques and junk, powered by one stretched extension cord from an adjacent apartment.  A single pot bellied stove supplied heat for the establishment.

     The former landscape business property peaked Jimmy’s interest.  He had visions of setting up some kind of a food business as he had worked at Jim/Bob’s in Bozeman and before that was a produce manager for Albertson’s.  He offered seventeen thousand dollars to the family of the deceased owner and sealed the deal.

     Jimmy’s ability to imagine or anticipate success is a crucial skill and one reason he is still in business twenty-three years later as the Front Street Market, Butte’s Italian Grocer, in Butte, Montana.  

     But, it wasn’t easy.

      The whole project needed “a lot of love and attention” when Jimmy came back in 1990, just in time for St. Patrick’s Day.  He gathered up his supplies, got a license from the mayor’s office, and set up an outside barbeque business for the day. 

     “It snowed all that morning, but business was good, and I made $3000 that day.  That was my last paycheck,” he verbally allows.

     The cleanup for the old building took three months.  He opened on May 18, 1990, and according to Jimmy, “there were cars all over the place.”

     Rolling up the sleeves of his denim work shirts, as he still does, Jimmy transferred his food sensibilities throughout the new store.

     “We offered cooking classes for ten dollars right here in the kitchen.”    

      He did a lot of catering which allowed him to expand.

     “We did Lonesome Dove, fed all the actors, and sold all the antiques in the basement to them.”

     Today, the Front Street Market continues to integrate catering well into their business.  They make ten to fifteen salads, four chafers, dipped strawberries, shrimp, salmon, cheeses, and cold cuts. Renown in Butte, they used to make and sell one hundred pasties daily, but were overwhelmed with the demand and couldn’t keep up. 

     In 1997, they built on to the back end of the store for a wine shop which features over 1000 bottles of domestic and imported wines.  Trek downstairs, and you find the cellar for the 165 wine club members who receive two bottles of wine each month.  In the late nineties, they also added a deli which heightens the store’s momentum for hungry lunch time crowds seeking hot corned beef, real turkey, tuna melts, meatloaf, and Italian meat sandwiches.  Bread used in the sandwiches is from frozen sourdough baguettes from California and Italian bread from Spokane.  They also serve two kinds of gourmet soups daily (year round 150 different soups).  Marla makes the soups and salads in the deli.  Their $4.50 lunch includes soup, Italian bread, and a freshly baked cookie.   The $6.50 lunch includes sandwich, soup, or salad, cookie, and a drink.  

       “We keep it simple,” says Jimmy as he shares the famous Front Street Gorgonzola Dip that started out as a sandwich spread (Marla’s recipe) and now sells two hundred pints per week.

   The Front Street Market has over twenty to thirty thousand items many acquired from fancy food shows in Las Vegas and San Francisco that Jimmy attends.  There are Robert Rothschild’s line of salad dressings and gourmet sauces; Chocolate chips from Belgium; baking and dipping chocolate from around the world; Coffee from Montana Coffee Traders, Illy’s Italian coffee, and Lavalla Coffee .  A wall of over 200 varieties of pasta pleases many along with some 120 kinds of dried beans, peas, and lentils.  And, an aisle of specialty olives and olive oil fulfills the serious gourmands.  Afficionados of Moscow Mules will find copper (mined in Butte) mugs here.  There is spaghetti sauce of every “nature” from New York City, to outstanding Italian restaurants. Even an Amish group makes jams, and jellies with “our own recipes,” notes Jimmy. For tea totalers, the tea room features Republic of Tea, and PG Tips tea.

     Today, Jimmy’s father’s art work and his collection of airplanes fashioned from kits dot the walls and ceiling of his business.

       “It gives the place some ambience,” he says with his ever present grin.

        This bustling business is run by a small army of employees:  Jimmy, Marla, a granddaughter, a grandson, and four others.

     With sweeping enthusiasm into his food forays, Jimmy claims: “I do everything.  So does Marla.  We try to make everyone happy.  Our most popular foods are in the freezer by the front door where we sell our key items: raviolis and lasagna.  Our own recipes are now made for us in Chicago and are trucked in every week.  Early on, we made our own, but that took a lot of time.” 

     Reflecting on the future, Jimmy imparts the thought that: “It’s a lot easier to get into the boat than get out of the boat.”

     Meanwhile, he is often torn between two passions: working and working.  That’s because his grocery gusto is always ramping up.

     “This is really a job I enjoy.  Nobody tells me if my peaches are piled up too high.  I’m my own boss. Marla and I got away eight times last year.  We are open seven days a week year round. Leaving for any length of time creates holes.  We have customers we deal with who spend money.  They like to spend a little more for pasta, etc.   They can ask my wife or myself how to cook something, and we can tell them.  We are customer friendly. 

          Front Street Market

          8 West Front Street

          Butte, Montana 59701

          (406) 782-2614 

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Casey Parks - Rodeo UGF

Casey Park – UGF rodeo team- Ask an Athlete April 2013 from Polly

     A transfer from Highline Community College (Washington), Casey Park, came to the University of Great Falls to wrestle.  When he arrived, he learned that UGF had a rodeo team, and he was game for that.  Growing up on a ranch in Enumclaw, Washington, both his mom and dad did rodeo.

     “We had five horses, an arena, cows, and what not,” says Park, but his dad would not let him do any of the rodeo events until he was eighteen.  Park was involved in high school wrestling at the time and didn’t have time for other activities.  He has been involved in sports for many years and is majoring in Health and Physical Education at UGF.  He hopes to become a Physical Education teacher.  

1.  How long have you been doing rodeo?

     I have done calf roping for a long time, and participated in that event until recently when my calf roping horse was injured.  I just started steer wrestling and have made a short go at it at three rodeos.  I’m coming along well.  I did my first spring college rodeo this weekend.  I did well.  Once I get the rodeo jitters out of me, I will do better.  

2.  Why rodeo?  How did you get started?

     I was around rodeo all the time growing up.  My parents were both involved in the events.  However, I was too busy with other activities and didn’t really take it up until I arrived here at UGF.

3.  What is your weekly training routine?

    I’m on the UGF wrestling team as well.  I work out a lot for that sport.  I have to keep my weight down. I do lot of cardio, running, weights. I do it all.  I work out every day.  And, there are days when I work out twice. I even do a run before class in the morning.    

4.  What other activities do you do?

     When I go home on break, I’m a wrestling coach at a club in Enumclaw.  Sometimes, I box.

5.  What keeps you motivated?

     I just like being around horses and the rodeo environment.  It is a long tradition in my family.  Sometimes, I want to be great at everything I do.

6.  Have you faced any setbacks and how did you overcome them?

     This last weekend I did two rodeos.  I was the second guy out on the steer wrestling.  I didn’t quite catch the steer and he put me on the ground pretty hard. I injured the AC joint in my shoulder and now, I am on a medical out for possibly a few weeks.  For steer wrestling, you have to toughen up.  It is physically demanding.  I have bruises and bumps.  It goes with the territory.  Those steers can be pretty nasty.

7.  What tips do you have for someone who wants to get started in rodeo?

     Well, it is not for the weak, but the rewards are great.  The people are a good group to be around.  It is an old sport, a lot of history here, and that makes you feel good.  I would stress that people come out to our college rodeo.  It is definitely a good experience and if you have never been to a rodeo, you can see what it’s like. 

8.  What health benefits have you seen through your participation in rodeo events?

     I can’t think of anything.  There is a sense of pride, and that does make you feel good.  You have to learn to be mentally tough.  You have to have a high threshold of pain.  You know it’s going to happen.

9.  Do you have any warm-up and cool-down tips?

     I always stretch before steer wrestling: legs, arms, run a few laps to get warm.  You are only out there for five seconds, and you don’t want to tear anything.

10.  How do you incorporate nutrition into your workout routine?

     During wrestling season I worry about my weight.  I have to stay healthy.  But basically, I always eat healthy.  I have a knowledge of what is good for me.  I also know what’s not good for me: pizza, cheeseburgers and fries.  During the rodeo season, I try to not eat garbage.  So, during the week, I cook for myself.  I eat mostly protein and vegetables, and a lot of meat.  When you are on the road with rodeo, it is hard to eat healthy in restaurants.