Ewald Vineyard

Russian River Vineyard –Travel story from Polly Kolstad

          The Russian River Valley, approximately fifty miles north of San Francisco is well known for its viti culture.  Located in Sonoma County, it is one of California’s distinguished wine producing regions.

          Along one of the unabashedly beautiful roads in the area near Sebastopol, is the sculptured iron gate to the Ewald Vineyard. Unique, in that it is owned by Sally (the former Sally Hatcher of Great Falls), and her husband David Ewald, it is also known for the 4,321 pinot noir vines, and the solar power that supplies the energy for their operation.

      My daughter and I were fortunate to be house guests of the Ewalds this spring just as the grapevines were about to bud, and leaf out.

     The Ewalds hospitality features their very fine wines, as well as, an ongoing education about their second career paths: making wine.  They are no strangers to business and viticulture.

      In fact, there’s an upbeat breeze in the conversation as Sally pulls on her red Wellingtons, and David checks their weather station before guiding us through their boutique vineyard. 

     With a Master’s degree from Stanford University, Sally has had a long career in business.  Early on, she took a job with Western Airlines in San Jose and rose to be the city manager of the company. Then, she went into consulting for Wilson Learning Corporation. Eventually, she left and started her own  company, Learning Solutions Alliance Global, where she continues as  chairman of the board.

     David, an aeronautical engineer, was a spy satellite test controller in the late 60s, and early 70s. After working in that field seven days a week for years, David switched gears and went into residential and commercial real estate in the Palo Alto area.

     Even then, with busy careers, they both found time to practice winemaking; the house they had purchased in Los Altos came with fifty grape vines.

     Initially, we made batches like “Old Lead Pencil,” and “Chateau Garage,” said Sally with a grin. 

     When they moved to their Sebastopol vineyard in 2002, the already established vines had a good reputation, and the Ewalds looked for a vineyard manager, who would oversee the growing, harvesting and marketing of their grapes.  Even at that, David is a perfectionist notes Sally, “he’s out here (in the vineyard) all the time.”

     Grapes grown in this area are well known because of the terroir (climate, sun exposure, soil make-up and surrounding flora ) and the grape growing strategy. The Russian River Valley’s cool climate affords success with certain varietals, notably Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

     As we headed down the landscaped path of rosemary, lavender, and decorative grasses, our gaze was pleasantly caught up in the symmetry of grape vines with arms stretched out in perfect form supported by horizontal wires.  We walked between the rows as David pointed out how the vines are pruned late to discourage early budding.  Each arm is limited to twelve spurs which will form buds.  The buds become trained vertical vines that yield good production of the grapes.  He notes that grape vines can live up to 100 years, but production drops off after about thirty years.

   In the spring, David is particularly concerned with frost danger. In the master bedroom of their home overlooking the vineyard, there is a weather station.  Micromisters record the temperature in every row of the vines broadcasting a reading.

     “It is set at 37 degrees and tells me if I have to turn the water on,” explains David whose nightly activity may involve hauling out of bed to get the various sprinkler systems going in the vineyard that will encase the vines to protect them from frost damage.

     “I want water flowing at 36 degrees; I recheck the forecast to know the dew point; if it is above freezing you are less likely to get caught with frost.  April and May are great concern when the plant is leafing out and buds are beginning to form.

     David’s ingenious layout is powered by fifty solar panels that he has placed on the roof of his barn.  The solar panels provide energy plus for the Ewalds.  David has more than enough power for his vineyard, house, and other projects.  What he doesn’t use, he sells back to the electric company’s grid. 

     As summer progresses, the Ewalds and Jim Pratt, their vineyard manager, keep a close watch over their three-and-a-half acres of premium vines.  They want the autumn harvest to produce the best grapes for Siduri Wines, their contract winemaker.  They feel fortunate to have found a small winery that produces wine in limited quantities for vineyard (single vineyard grapes) designated wines.

      Adam Lee, co-owner Siduri, named for the Babylonian goddess of wine, and wife Dianna, have been producing premium wines since 1994.  As the grapes ripen, they come out to the Ewald vineyard to taste, pick, and then, haul the crop to the Siduri winery located in a Santa Rosa industrial park.  Lee, has been called “a powerhouse pinot noir producer” and the Siduri Pinots regularly make the San Francisco Chronicle top 100 wines list.  Their wines reflect the unique vineyards in which the grapes are grown.

     With that knowledge, we were eager to take in some wine tasting at the Siduri winery, a short drive, about twenty minutes away. Many of the over 150 wineries in and around the Russian River Valley are small operations and offer complimentary tastings. We found this to be true, as we toured the winery and enjoyed free tasting of six to eight wines including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Viognier, and Zinfandel.  (Siduri wines may be special ordered through Pizazz in Great Falls.)

     We had to conclude that the Siduri Ewald Vineyard Russian River Pinot Noir was the best: a classic wine to be remembered along with the excellent experience of being with Sally and David.

      Cheers!