Fennel

Fennel

     In the fifteen century, sailors who were still fearful that the earth was flat, were blown off course and landed on a string of islands in the North Atlantic between Portugal and Africa, what today is known as the Madeira archipelago.  When they went ashore, their toes tangled with the common plant, fennel.  The wild flowering herb with its feathery leaves waved in the warm, sunny climate, so prolifically, that as the area became settled, the Portuguese named the capital of the region: Funchal (fennel), Madeira.

     Today, in beautiful Funchal, the breathtaking terraced gardens overlooking the blue waves of the Atlantic,  feature all manner of edibles from grapes to bananas, and yes, fennel.

     Known throughout Mediterranean climes, the tall wispy plant with a fronded top looks rather like dill.  The ferny top sprouts yellow or white flowers which produce the fennel seeds.  But the main attraction is the white bulb, very firm and crunchy, the texture of which is similar to that of celery.  In vegetable stands and produce departments, aromatic fennel can’t be missed as it smells like anise and tastes a bit like licorice.

     Even before those maritime wanderers stumbled onto Madeira, fennel had enjoyed a rich history.

     The Greeks knew fennel by the name “marathon.”  It grew in the field in which one of the great ancient battles was fought and which was subsequently named the Battle of Marathon after this revered plant.  Fennel was also awarded to Pheidippedes, the runner who delivered the news of the Persian invasion to Sparta.  Fennel was appropriated by the Greeks and the Romans for its medicinal and culinary properties. Warriors took it to keep good health, while their ladies took it to stave off obesity. The Roman historian, Pliny, recommended fennel as an aid for eyesight.   Puritans in America would bring handkerchiefs with fennel seed to nibble on during long services to stave off hunger.   Allegedly, Thomas Jefferson, a great gardener himself, preferred Florence fennel as his favorite vegetable.

      Fennel belongs to the Umbelliferae family and is therefore closely related to parsley, carrots, dill and coriander.  One cup of sliced raw fennel contains Vitamin C, potassium, manganese, folate, molybedenum, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, iron, copper, and niacin (Vitamin B3).  That’s a healthy twenty-six calories!

     Good quality fennel will have bulbs that are clean, firm and solid: whitish or pale green in color.  The bulb is made of overlapping layers of the vegetable, almost like a cabbage.  Once purchased, it should be stored in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator and will keep for about five days.  Sliced fennel may be frozen after first being blanched.  However, it seems to lose much of its flavor during this process.  Cut up the green stalks and they can be used in soups, stocks, and stews, while the leaves are a savory herb seasoning.  Dried fennel seeds should be stored in an airtight container in a cool and dry location where they will keep for about six months.  Storing fennel seeds in the refrigerator will help to keep them fresher longer.

     Crunchy and slightly sweet, fennel is a refreshing contribution to many cuisines.

     Sauteed fennel and onions make a wonderful side dish.  Combine sliced fennel with avocados and oranges for a delightful salad. Braised fennel is a great compliment to scallops.  Fennel is a marvelous match when served with salmon.  Consider adding sliced fennel in addition to lettuce and tomato in sandwiches.  Top thinly sliced fennel with plain yogurt and mint leaves for a refreshing dip.

     Herb fennel is a key flavoring in Italian sausage, baked goods, including zuccherine (Greek wedding cookies), and herbes de Provence.  Fennel may be used in curry and Chinese five spice powder.  There is even a fennel liqueur called: Finochhietto.      

       Fennel is now cultivated worldwide.  It was introduced to America in the 1800s, and does well in temperatures above 10 degrees.  The potted plants are available at local nurseries and may be put into outside gardens.  Fennel is a bit of a sun worshipper and needs good watering over dry periods.  When planting, keep away from dill or coriander to ensure a full crop of seed as it will reduce cross pollination.  As the plant matures, the soil needs to be drawn around the bottom of the bulb.  When it reaches the size of a golf ball, it will then double in size over the next two to three weeks. It is then ready to harvest.

     Funchal, Madeira is more often than not, sunny and warm, and known as the Pearl of the Atlantic, the floating garden.  There’s no better place to view the loveliness than at Reid’s Hotel sipping the rhetorical “Funchal Tonic.” When ordered, the waiter merely smiles and takes to the bar to add a bit of Finochhietto (or anisette, if not available), to a vodka tonic garnished with a fresh swish of fennel.

     Though many at the local wine lodges raise their glasses filled with the signature Madeira sherry, chanting  the old British song: “Have Some Madeira, M’Dear,” there’s nothing quite like a funchal tonic.