Saturday, August 23, 2014

Mission Bistro, Stevensville, MT

Mission Bistro
     Usually, it’s the cake that steals the show, but the “amuse bouche,” brought to the table at the Mission Bistro in Stevensville, Montana, immediately raises the “aha” moment.  It’s the unsuspecting surprise that pleases nightly patrons as they settle into the French version of a small inviting and delicious bite that makes the mouth smile.  Recently, unprepared for this gift from the chef, our table was treated to a puff pastry square of wild mushroom sauté crowned with herbed sour cream. 
     That welcome note changes daily as the brother/sister owners, Eric and Angela Loessberg enthusiastically welcome patrons to their quaint restaurant named for St. Mary’s Mission, and based out of a century old farm house just off Stevensville’s main street. The newly whitewashed and decorated thirty-four seat establishment entices gourmet diners to sophisticated dishes prepared for audiences that are surprised to find this fine restaurant in the Bitterrroot Valley.
    “We are both inspired by great food and great service and we wanted to bring that to our friends, family, and community,” says Eric, adding, “food is meant to be enjoyed with a loved one, with people who share the same love and joy of food as you do and we just wanted to provide a warm comfortable place for everyone to gather and serve great food with a smile!
     A few years ago (post haste ten), before he returned to his home town, Eric was honing his culinary skills around the country.
     He initially worked at a restaurant in Missoula while in college.   Not long after, he left for Nevada and eventually landed in the Paddle Wheel Steamboat Cruise Line where as the pastry chef, he made a lot of desserts.  A trip to Seattle to visit a friend ended up being nearly a two year commitment as he attended the Seattle Art Institute Culinary School and graduated with honors.  He interned and worked for three years with “The Chef in the Hat,” Thierry Rautureau’s upscale Rover’s.
     Sister, Angie, has been a waitress, bartender, and barista, in the customer end (the front end) of establishments.  Several years ago, she moved to the east coast and worked in a fine dining restaurant on Martha’s Vineyard.  Yet, home was always calling, so she returned to “the place she loved,” and moved in with her brother.  She worked in a local café, and did some catering before the familial duo opened the Mission Bistro June 1, 2012.
     With his culinary background, Eric’s cuisine style is northwest with French influence.  He buys local  and organic produce from the Big Creek Ranch.  His butter and milk come from the Victor Life Line Creamery. He orders goat cheese from Amaltheia, an organic dairy in Belgrade, Montana.  The only beers sold are from two local breweries: The Black Smith, and the Wildwood Brewery.  They stock a good selection of wines from the Northwest: Washington, Oregon, California and continue to expand the cellar.
      We discovered they have a fresh fish special every night as they fly in pacific seafood out of Seattle.  King salmon, pan seared with herbed red quinoa, and garlic sautéed spinach topped with huckleberry buerre rouge remained an absolute favorite at our table.  However, according to Angie, the most popular fish entrée is the hazelnut crusted filet of sole.
     The grilled rib Eye (10 oz. with red wine reduction) and the pork chop brined with Granny Smith apple chutney/golden raisins will please the meaty palate.
     For pasta lovers, Eric makes his own every day.  His signature dish:  Andouille sausage , Mexican Blue prawns, in a roasted red pepper cream sauce served over homemade pasta. 
     Entrees are conveniently priced from: $16 to $24; accompanied with a choice of roasted red potatoes, garlic mashed potatoes, or red caraway cabbage with bacon.
     With character restraint, a few of us ordered from their small plate menu which included: Brown Butter sea scallops with red lentils, and sautéed radicchio salad ($11.00); Steamed Clams with fennel, Andouille sausage ($11.00); Bison Sliders 3 ways with stone ground mustard ($10.00); and local and imported cheese and salumi plate with fresh bread, and toasted marcona almonds ($11.00)
     The food Eric prepares nightly always includes his succulent French onion soup with a petit crouton and gruyere cheese, and a fresh soup of the night. I had fresh roasted yellow squash, delicious, with dots of crème fraiche surfacing. 
      You don’t get away with just greens when ordering a salad.  The Caesar, spinach, and house salad are all original recipes served with homemade dressings.
      To end it all, save room for dessert.  The former pastry chef (Eric) makes all his own desserts: Big Creek Espresso Crème Brulee; Flour-less Chocolate Torte, Warm Guittard Molten Chocolate Cake served with Big Dipper Vanilla Bean Ice Cream; Cheesecake topped with Huckleberry Sauce, seasonal sorbets, and Big Dipper Vanilla Bean Ice Cream Sundae with Candied Walnuts, Fresh Berries, Caramel and Chocolate Sauce.
     Beneath it all, the kitchen chooses mismatched interesting dishes and stem ware that complement the innovative presentations.  The casual ambience and the attention to details make for a memorable dining experience.  
      Eric has an uncanny eye and is always looking for something fun and local.  He changes the menu with the season.  He is pleased that he gets crowds from Missoula, Hamilton, and the Stock Farm.  This is just the start of a dream.  He hopes to expand in the future. 
     At that, “there’s no time now, he admits, “we are pretty much here seven days a week.”
The Mission Bistro
101 Church Street
Stevensville, Montana
Open: Wednesday thru Saturday 5 -10 pm
9 – 3 pm Sunday brunch
Walk in or call: 406-777-6945

  

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