Saturday, August 23, 2014

Green Chile story

Green Chile story – from Polly Kolstad
     The dynamics of our heritage sometimes just won’t let go.
     Just ask Sharon McKittrick about New Mexico, where she was born and lived as a child, and she rolls her eyes and says: “let me tell you about the green chile.”
       In other words, put your serape on, and sit down because if it is early September, Sharon and Pat McKittrick have just received their order of two to three hundred fresh New Mexico green chile that they will roast, peel, and freeze for their annual keep. 
     Since the early 1970s, the McKittricks have made this their harvest.  Early on, when they went to visit Sharon’s aunt in Los Lunas, she would buy the green chile at the Sichler produce market.  Now, the green chile come from the Sichler Farms in the Middle Rio Grande Valley, not far from where Sharon’s ancestors had a cattle ranch.  
     Indeed, this means that the long green chile are picked on Monday, shipped on Tuesday, and arrive packed in burlap bags and boxes on Wednesday.  That’s when the McKittricks roll up their sleeves and attack these “hotties” with a vengeance.
     There’s nothing like the New Mexico green chile that is indigent to the state’s cuisine, and as Sharon points out, “while I enjoy any variety of Mexican food, it always comes with the comment that it isn’t New Mexico.”   
     The New Mexico green chile is a special variety that was originally bred in New Mexico.  The growing climate and the varietal breeding have created the chile that is exciting and flavorful.  More green chile are grown in New Mexico than all other states combined.   Unlike any other, it is a blend of flavors from Spanish and Native American cultures that has been perfected over the course of generations.    In both red and green varieties, the New Mexico chile is used in everything from sauce to ice cream. Many families include the green chile in every one of their meals.  After you’ve taken a bite of the New Mexico grown green chile in any dish, you may find it hard not to bring a little warmth back to your home.
     Citing a phrase Pat has used, “there’s something magical about the green chile.”  “The endorphins kick in when you eat it.”
     That feeling of well being is within the sphere of medicos.  Chile is an excellent source of beta carotene and vitamin C.  It may help relieve nasal congestion.  Chile is more nutritious than sweet peppers and the green varieties generally have a higher nutritious content than the red ones.  In addition research indicates that capsaicin, the ingredient that makes chile hot, may act as an anticoagulant, perhaps helping to prevent blood clots that can lead to heart attack or a stroke.
     Many people believe that green and red chile grow on different plants.  This is false.  Green chile is a fruit and as such ripen.  Therefore, you have green chile which is green and which can be considered not ripe.  The red chile is the ripe fruit.  Green chile is ready for harvest starting in August, but the fresh red chile is not ready until mid September.  Furthermore, the sun dried red chile pods are harvested when dry starting in mid-December.
     To complement her heritage cooking, Sharon orders five or more pounds of pure ground red chile that she freezes in individual packets. 
     The activity that heightens the moment at the McKittricks is when the green chile are placed on the hot grill to blister.  They are turned and rotated repeatedly to ensure even blistering, about twenty minutes.  Immediately, Pat removes the blistered chile to a large platter and covers them with a slightly damp towel.  They rest for awhile to let the steam off and the charred peel to loosen.  Sharon cuts the stem off (where the seeds are that make the chile hot) and places the chile on a board to peel.  Once peeled, the chile are placed in plastic bags and put in the freezer.
     There are many ways to enjoy the New Mexico green chile.  Stuff them with cheese (any kind), roll in flour, and sauté in a hot oiled pan.  Serve warm with tortillas or sopapillas and honey.  Green chile may be chopped, simmered in a little water, garlic, and salt. This becomes the “green chile” like a relish or a condiment, and is often added to salsas.  
     A vast green swath may be carved out of New Mexico green chile.  Recipes abound especially at the McKittrick house.  Just don’t call New Mexico green chile, “green peppers,” cautions Sharon.
      To purchase fresh green chile:
     Ernie Sichler Farms
     135 Sichler Road
     Los Lunas, New Mexico 87031
    Telephone: (505) 865-6543


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