Green Chile story – from Polly Kolstad
The dynamics of
our heritage sometimes just won’t let go.
Just ask Sharon
McKittrick about New Mexico, where she was born and lived as a child, and she
rolls her eyes and says: “let me tell you about the green chile.”
In other words,
put your serape on, and sit down because if it is early September, Sharon and
Pat McKittrick have just received their order of two to three hundred fresh New
Mexico green chile that they will roast, peel, and freeze for their annual
keep.
Since the early
1970s, the McKittricks have made this their harvest. Early on, when they went to visit Sharon’s
aunt in Los Lunas, she would buy the green chile at the Sichler produce market. Now, the green chile come from the Sichler
Farms in the Middle Rio Grande Valley, not far from where Sharon’s ancestors had
a cattle ranch.
Indeed, this
means that the long green chile are picked on Monday, shipped on Tuesday, and
arrive packed in burlap bags and boxes on Wednesday. That’s when the McKittricks roll up their
sleeves and attack these “hotties” with a vengeance.
There’s nothing
like the New Mexico green chile that is indigent to the state’s cuisine, and as
Sharon points out, “while I enjoy any variety of Mexican food, it always comes
with the comment that it isn’t New Mexico.”
The New Mexico
green chile is a special variety that was originally bred in New Mexico. The growing climate and the varietal breeding
have created the chile that is exciting and flavorful. More green chile are grown in New Mexico than
all other states combined. Unlike any
other, it is a blend of flavors from Spanish and Native American cultures that
has been perfected over the course of generations. In both red and green varieties, the New
Mexico chile is used in everything from sauce to ice cream. Many families
include the green chile in every one of their meals. After you’ve taken a bite of the New Mexico
grown green chile in any dish, you may find it hard not to bring a little
warmth back to your home.
Citing a phrase
Pat has used, “there’s something magical about the green chile.” “The endorphins kick in when you eat it.”
That feeling of
well being is within the sphere of medicos.
Chile is an excellent source of beta carotene and vitamin C. It may help relieve nasal congestion. Chile is more nutritious than sweet peppers
and the green varieties generally have a higher nutritious content than the red
ones. In addition research indicates
that capsaicin, the ingredient that makes chile hot, may act as an
anticoagulant, perhaps helping to prevent blood clots that can lead to heart
attack or a stroke.
Many people
believe that green and red chile grow on different plants. This is false. Green chile is a fruit and as such
ripen. Therefore, you have green chile
which is green and which can be considered not ripe. The red chile is the ripe fruit. Green chile is ready for harvest starting in
August, but the fresh red chile is not ready until mid September. Furthermore, the sun dried red chile pods are
harvested when dry starting in mid-December.
To complement her
heritage cooking, Sharon orders five or more pounds of pure ground red chile
that she freezes in individual packets.
The activity that
heightens the moment at the McKittricks is when the green chile are placed on
the hot grill to blister. They are
turned and rotated repeatedly to ensure even blistering, about twenty
minutes. Immediately, Pat removes the
blistered chile to a large platter and covers them with a slightly damp
towel. They rest for awhile to let the
steam off and the charred peel to loosen.
Sharon cuts the stem off (where the seeds are that make the chile hot)
and places the chile on a board to peel.
Once peeled, the chile are placed in plastic bags and put in the
freezer.
There are many
ways to enjoy the New Mexico green chile.
Stuff them with cheese (any kind), roll in flour, and sauté in a hot
oiled pan. Serve warm with tortillas or
sopapillas and honey. Green chile may be
chopped, simmered in a little water, garlic, and salt. This becomes the “green
chile” like a relish or a condiment, and is often added to salsas.
A vast green
swath may be carved out of New Mexico green chile. Recipes abound especially at the McKittrick
house. Just don’t call New Mexico green
chile, “green peppers,” cautions Sharon.
To purchase fresh green chile:
Ernie Sichler
Farms
135 Sichler Road
Los Lunas, New
Mexico 87031
Telephone: (505)
865-6543
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